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Cravado no Centro de São João, o Café Lafarrihe é daqueles lugares que dispensam firulas e entregam, na primeira bocada, uma história inteira. Toda vez que provo as maravilhosas esfihas servidas ali, penso que é sempre digno de reverência quando os descendentes honram o herdado de seus ancestrais. Desde 1996, Rita, filha da matriarca Lahila Yazbek, vem mantendo viva a chama do fogão que tanto encantava os queridos com sabores e memória.
Filha de libaneses, dona Lahila era quituteira de mão cheia, dessas que transformam as em pontes de carinho. Com talento abençoado e uma generosidade que transbordava do prato, fez da cozinha não só um espaço de aconchego, mas também o ganha-pão da família. E assim, entre temperos e gestos simples, plantou raízes profundas em solo brasileiro.
Quando Rita abriu as portas do café, não quis apenas servir comida libanesa, quis partilhar um legado. E ela não está sozinha nessa missão. Suas filhas, Flávia e Fabiana, mergulharam com entusiasmo nesse pequeno negócio que tem a alma e o DNA dos Yazbek. Flávia, mestre confeiteira, adicionou ao menu doçuras primorosas, algumas sem ligação direta com as receitas do Oriente Médio, mas todas com o mesmo apuro no fazer.
No cardápio do Lafarrihe, as esfihas se juntam aos charutinhos, ao quibe, ao babaganoush, ao tabule, entre outros quitutes que contam, sem palavras e com múltiplos aromas, a história de superação dos imigrantes e a preservação cultural pelas novas gerações. Cada garfada ali tem sotaque, memória e um amor que atravessa o tempo e os oceanos.
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